Chapter Seven: 'Ojala...'

Since my last blog post quite a bit has happened.

The first British Astronaut entered space. Chelsea manager Jose Mourinho, The Special One, became The Sacked One. There was an awakening within the Force... did you feel it? (WHAT a film, by the way!) Spain's General Election resulted in the most politically fragmented Parliament the country has ever seen. And yesterday saw the back of 2015 for good.

Star Wars hype is universal. I didn't know this at the time, but (SPOILERS) there are actually TWO Ben's in this picture...

Like many others, the period between Christmas and New Year brings me to reflect on the year gone by: the challenges and targets I set myself, what I achieved, what I couldn't quite reach, the highest highs and the crushing disappointments. I'd  say that I often dwell on the regrets a lot more than the successes, which is why this year I've tried to change my outlook. This time around, I'm using the New Year as a time to look ahead, to set new targets and goals to focus on, rather than dwelling on any regrets or heartache from the previous year. This new outlook stems from a fantastic quote I came across shortly before Christmas (which you can read at the end as always) and is what this latest blog post will discuss. I don't think it's any coincidence that my time in Spain has given me a refreshing way to view our entry into 2016- over the holidays I've faced countless questions from relatives and family friends about what it's like to be living in Spain for a year, with just 12 hours a week spent teaching classes in English. My answer? 'It just feels like I'm on sabbatical.'

Why is this? Well, first of all the novelty of the whole experience still hasn't worn off. A year ago I still hadn't decided what I wanted to do in my third year- but I can emphatically say that I made the right choice now. Because of that previous indecision I can't help but feel as if everything that has transpired since has been a bonus. I think this outlook has really helped me embrace the experience thus far, and made me get the best out of everything I've done in Granada up to now.

One of my favourite things I've put into practice during the three-and-a-half months so far that I've been in Spain is a lovely little word called 'Ojalá', meaning 'hopefully', but more often 'I wish' or 'If only'. I've been using it quite often to answer questions like 'Do you have a girlfriend in England, Ben?' or 'Have you been paid yet by the Ministry of Education?' One of these has been solved over the holidays, although the answer to the other one remains 'Ojalá', and emphatically so.

The wonderful thing about this little word is that it can be used to express so many different things: it could be used for sarcastic self-deprecation, part of a wish list or, very relevantly, to look forward to whatever goals you set for the near or distant future. It's already worked it's way into my day to day vernacular because of this flexibility. But more importantly, every time I use it I'm made to think hard about what I want to achieve and what I still have to look forward to this year. It's shaping up to be a big one: starting halfway through my Year Abroad, finishing back at NTU to round things off. I've previously referred to these two years as 'the business end' of a language degree and it certainly feels like that is the case. But all the better to go into it with a year's worth of experience of Spain's people, lifestyle and culture, along with this cracking little phrase. It all adds up to an increasing confidence with engaging Spaniards in a recognizable style- that of the everyday conversation, which makes them see you as less a tourist who wants to just take a few pictures, and a seriously committed linguist who can maintain a conversation with little apparent effort. This is one of the biggest revelations that I've experienced thus far- Spaniards who are speaking with you also need to have confidence in your abilities, so give them reasons to believe in you and then you will absolutely fly.

Believe it or not, I took this.

I certainly feel much the better for going on the Year Abroad. Living with two Spanish girls who don't speak a word of English has certainly chucked me in at the deep-end, but I'm positive that this whole experience will be so worthwhile come next September, although at the moment that feels like a very long way away. Thankfully so- I don't want this 'sabbatical' to end anytime soon.

This doesn't mean that some time at home hasn't been much appreciated: quite the contrary, the last three weeks have been a perfect opportunity to really switch off for the first time for almost two years- no deadlines to meet, presentations to prepare, various paperwork to fill out or other external pressures in personal or social areas that can be even more draining than work. So for once I have enjoyed having a true break with nothing to be worried about. I've caught up with friends who have all been quick to tell me how rubbish I am at keeping in touch, been spoilt rotten by my wonderful family, eaten and slept a bit more than normal and been to see The Force Awakens twice. And now I'm positively itching to get back to Granada on Wednesday afternoon, ready to go again.

So roll on 2016- a year that will bring all it's own challenges and goals, highs and lows. A year that begins in Spain and ends back at NTU. I can't help wonder what will have happened by then: what will my classmates and I have achieved during our time abroad? How will our placements have changed us, and what will the end result be? All these questions, and a great many others, will be answered in due course. The only one I'm concerned with however, is this: will 2016 continue to bring success and improvement?

I think you know the answer already: 'Ojalá'.

Best of luck this year to you all. I wish you every success!


Life is locomotion- if you're not moving you're not living. But there comes a time when you've got to stop running away from things and start running towards something else. You've got to forge ahead, keep moving. Even if the path isn't lit, trust that you'll find your way.

Chapter Six: Perseverance

Autumnal Granada is simply stunning. In fact it's very similar to how England SHOULD be at this time of year: golden-brown leaves litter the parks and pavements, the sun shines in a cloudless, perfect blue sky and the fresh mountain air from the Sierra Nevada is nothing short of invigorating. Although at the time when I'm up during the week it's nothing short of freezing, (1.5 degrees on Tuesday morning...) I've missed my winter jackets and scarves: it's nice to know that I can get them out again. Moreover Christmas decorations are shooting up everywhere and El Corte Ingles is already fully kitted out, stocked up and raring to go for the festive season- much like myself, as only 16 days remain until I fly home to spend the holidays with family and friends. There is, however, one slight hitch...

Lately, I've been feeling like my Spanish has hit something of a rough patch, with a few more off days than I'm happy with. I've been through spells like this before, and I'm sure many others have too. For the non-linguistically-initiated, on occasions of this kind I struggle to string together anything vaguely coherent- too many uncertain pauses, hesitation. Nothing flows as it should: you often feel as if you can't remember the simplest word, phrase or conjugation to make your point. Engaging native speakers in a foreign language, I've found, requires you to constantly be prepared to step into the breach. You have to be prepared to make mistakes, like in any area of life, in order to improve. I recently read a personal coaching column on this very subject- perseverance.

It's safe to say that I take myself too seriously at times. Many times have I been told that I'm too hard on myself, expecting too much too soon- not only in academic pursuits but also in athletics and also other things, like relationships. Inevitably such an 'all-or-nothing' approach more often than not sets you up for disappointment- such as my extensive history of injury problems on the one hand, and also being constantly single on the other! As Language Assistants, before going on placement much of our preparatory correspondence with the British Council encouraged us to be patient with our students, many of whom had just started bilingual education and had never before studied a foreign language. That's all fine, but I'd also add a footnote, encouraging all LA's to be patient with themselves too. We're not going to become qualified teachers overnight, and there'll be plenty of stumbling blocks to overcome even after you've fully settled on your placement. Furthermore I think a great many people would benefit from treating themselves as they ideally treat others, at times.

What I mean is this: whenever we learn a new skill, be it academic, linguistic or an important life skill like driving, we also temporarily practice a far more important quality before forgetting all about it upon achieving mastery of that skill. I'm talking about perseverance. Think of a toddler learning to walk for the first time: more often than not it's a fairly simplistic process of stand up, walk a few steps, fall down, be picked up by Mum or Dad, and repeat until successful. We know the toddler will eventually get it right so we encourage it to keep trying. If only we all talked to ourselves like this! More often than not our default response is to continually mull over where we believe we went wrong, castigating ourselves for making the simplest slip-up and being afraid to get back on the metaphorical bike. Hopefully by now you can see what I'm getting at!

I'm sure that I am not alone in having experienced a fair amount of tough times, setbacks and rough patches over the years. What's important is not over-analysing what you believe to be going wrong, rather sticking at it and knowing that sooner or later you'll come through it. One thing I've found is that the Year Abroad can be mentally taxing at times, being almost force-fed the target language all day, every day and also having to think five or six words ahead in conversation. With me this also makes the time I get to spend with myself precious, whether that be a night in my flat at the weekends, going out for a run or down to the track or gym to train. It allows me time to collect my thoughts and gives me clarity, along with being an outlet for any built-up nervous energy that's accumulated throughout the day. Taking time to look after yourself is something I'd always recommend to anyone at anytime, but in this type of situation it's importance is paramount.

Ultimately the Year Abroad is a shared experience- not only among those going away on it, but also our families, friends and administrative staff at our various universities who are all involved in logistical planning, financial and even emotional support when needed. And I believe the fact that this year is such a major operation is the best way any language student can get through any sticky periods- by remembering the bigger picture and the countless others who are more than likely in the same position as you, a fact I remembered during a phone-call from Trent recently- moreover it's a very strange thought that things in Nottingham continue as usual, and there are a lot of times when I need to remind myself that I'm out here for university purposes: but importantly without the pressure of having to get at least a 2:1 in every essay, presentation and exam that I constantly put on myself. In fact, my sister often tells me that she thinks I must enjoy putting pressure on myself to do better, and I don't hesitate to agree with her. Lucky, as she'd have some stern words otherwise!

There's a saying 'This too shall pass' and I'm convinced I'll get my confidence back in due course- maybe as early as next week. In this kind of situation it's important to focus on the things you've already accomplished: moving abroad, surrounding yourself with people who don't speak your native language, spending hours in the foreign office and bank to complete the relevant paperwork and then the 12 hours a week you are required to spend entertaining and engaging with your students and the planning of the weeks' lessons, to say nothing of the impressions you need to leave with other members of staff and people in your immediate social circle. It's no wonder many of us need a break or have a down period once in a while- we're only human after all, and no one can perform at 100 percent all day every day without breaking down, either physically or suffering a mental dip, or even complete burnout. Proof of this for me has come in the past week, although on the brighter side, it's given me time to consider the causes of this self-induced pressure and appreciate every opportunity that comes my way.

I'm lucky to have got the balance right so far and am loving every minute that I'm spending out here. Though I can't lie about being seriously excited to fly home for the holidays in 16 days' time. I think one of the most important things university life has taught me so far is to not see everything as one enormous, insurmountable challenge, but rather break it down into smaller chunks. In terms of the Year Abroad, I'd say it's much the same. Upon arriving at your placement, the numerous administrative procedures can seem overwhelming, but if you draw up a plan of action then you'll be much better served in the long run. But remember to relax and, crucially again, don't be afraid to make mistakes. It's how we respond to these mistakes that defines whether the experience has been a success or not, and that comes back to perseverance.

And on that note it's time to sign off. Good luck with whatever challenges come your way this week, and since everyone seems to be talking about Star Wars at the moment, may The Force be with you!

*Edit: For any who studied my previous blog on the lack of British coaches in Spain's La Liga and the perceived problems adapting to a foreign culture, you'd be interested to know that Gary Neville has been named the new head coach of Valencia C.F., replacing the wonderfully named Nuno Espirito Santo, and joining his brother Philip who was already working as assistant coach at Los Che. The Nevilles will be hoping that the Big Man is indeed on their side in Gary's first head coaching role. On this sensational development Guillem Balague says: 'What a brilliant move. We are talking about two guys who could have made a career in England at the top end of the scale, but instead they are stepping out of their comfort zone, go to Valencia and try to impress in a foreign country.' High praise indeed, and exactly what my previous blog, Lessons Being Learned tries to encourage. Let's see how the Nevilles fare!*


'We are so often caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey, especially the goodness of the people we meet along the way. Appreciation is a wonderful feeling. Don't overlook it.'- Unknown

Chapter Five: Lessons Being Learned

Throughout the course of this blog so far, I've been banging on about comfort-zones, routines and adapting to a different culture, and how these are so important when you're preparing to move abroad. However, I've spoken about them at great length without really explaining what these fancy terms actually mean. There are two reasons for this: the first being that without an example to use to illustrate the point, I'd be able to send even the most chronic insomniac to sleep by trying to define what exactly I mean; and the second being a lack of such an example. Until a few days ago, that is.

I'm sitting here writing this having learned, on Monday, of David Moyes' sacking as coach of San Sebastian's Real Sociedad CF. Obviously any sacking in the hyperactive media of the football world is big news but I couldn't hep but feel especially drawn to this one in particular, as I believe there are various challenges with which my classmates and myself can identify, as we soldier on through our quests to adapt, learn and improve. Learning a foreign language at University is like drinking from a straw, whereas the minute a lot of people arrive abroad the metaphor shifts to that of a barrel being emptied over one's head. Thankfully as ERASMUS students we are given all the time that we need to feel settled, not to mention being already well-versed in the lingo and certain aspects of a country's history and cultural traditions. In the mad world that is top-level football however, newly-hired coaches and managers are often not afforded this luxury.

Despite this difference, judging by the reaction of the Spanish press to Moyes' sacking the Scot's efforts to adapt to a different culture left much to be desired. According to Guillem Balague, Sky's Spanish Football expert, "he needed to work harder at adapting to a culture that is not Spanish, or even Basque culture, but Guipuzcoa. It's a part of the Basque country which, like everywhere in Spain, has a different mentality to the rest of the country. People think, speak and act differently."

This, I think, sums up a lot of what I've been trying to put into words so far in this blog- the term 'Spaniard' is misleading, as Spain is, and has been previously, filled with a range of cultures, where each region has a different form of the language. Furthermore people introduce themselves not as Spanish, rather as Madridista, Sevillano, Granadino or Valenciano. This sense of community fuels the different mentalities touched upon by Balague, who also asks the question of what one can learn from Moyes' failure to adapt. Was it to do with him personally, or the result of being unable to answer the questions put to him by a new culture? More importantly, does the culture to which one already belongs prepare them sufficiently for these challenges?

I'm a firm believer in getting out what you put in. This probably doesn't surprise many people, and it's a mentality that took it's time to harvest. Since then I've become converted to the principles of hard graft over a long period of time in order to achieve the goals I set for myself, whether athletic, linguistic or academic. I'm sure I don't need to give examples, but the most important part of this principle is, in my opinion, staying humble and accepting that the way I view the world is unique to me, hence others will more than likely not share it. In other words I must compromise or surrender control to others in order to progress. At times this is easy, at others not so. But it has done wonders for me so far on many fronts. Curiosity and self-honesty are also key, and it's a combination of these two, along with humility, that I believe makes one fully equipped. I also don't particularly consider these to be skills, more characteristics that can be acquired and instilled- there are subtle differences.

Going back to the example of Moyes, something that has been made clear to me from reading various columns and articles by people far more qualified in the field of Sport's Journalism than myself, one thing has been made abundantly clear: the biggest barrier to successful cultural integration depends on your point of cultural reference. It takes a lot of hard work to be ready for this challenge- 8 years in my case, solely based on learning the language, which is far from the only key factor, though it clearly has a huge role. As I listened to Balague's thoughts on Sky's La Liga Weekly podcast, one thing that struck me was the similar nature of the challenges faced by David Moyes and myself and my fellow ERASMUS students.

According to Balague, before making the move abroad "you must build sufficient layers of understanding to prepare yourself, with enough skills, including the language. Many people don't go abroad to learn and challenge themselves often enough, meaning that they continue to do things as they've always done them and like everyone has done them in England and Britain for a long time. Then when they go abroad and try to adapt to a new culture like Spain, they crash." I think this explains perfectly why being open-minded and humble is so important to making the best of a Year Abroad, certainly better than I ever could. Moreover for one to be prepared for the challenge, Balague cites curiosity and self-criticism as fundamental traits to aid cultural adaptation. Sound familiar? Incidentally, I consider these traits as important pre-requisites for success in any field, not just for travelling and adapting during your time abroad.

These thoughts are echoed by Diario Vasco journalist Inaki Izquierdo, who wrote that "Moyes still bears the impression of someone who has only just arrived and still doesn't understand the club, players or league, but more importantly the city, languages or even timetables."

As I have also said before, myself, my classmates and my fellow LA's have been learning the language for many years. However just learning for the sake of it does nothing- it sounds obvious but I do believe it's very easy to sink into this mentality, simply trying to force-feed yourself too much language in the hopes of obtaining a 2:1 or 1st, and losing track of the bigger picture and, more importantly, their love for the country whose language they have chosen to study. This also means that, therefore, you aren't challenging yourself and lack the necessary hunger to learn, whilst appreciating the stimulus you can get from studying or working abroad if you have the right attitude and go about things the correct way. Again, Balague echoes this when talking about the lack of British football coaches succeeding in Spain.

I've written on numerous occasions about the importance of stepping out of your comfort zone- yet another phrase used by Balague when discussing the decision of another British coach to move to Spain. Philip Neville has been working as an Assistant Coach for Valencia CF since July. He has also begun to learn the language on the job and can, in his own words, "get by." But Balague commends Neville for "stepping out of his comfort zone and being willing to learn. He still doesn't know enough to be fully adapted yet but he is willing to learn and challenge everything he already knows. In Britain the mentality revolves around shortcuts to success. People just want to come, take the picture and go. Learning and putting in the hours takes a huge effort- hours of working, travelling and, particularly, questioning yourself and being self critical, are key." I'm almost tempted to put this one in huge black letters.

As a language student so many of the key themes of this debate, and the material which surrounds it, strike a chord with me as I continue to feel more and more settled in Granada. Also as an avid follower of Spanish football there are plenty of parallels to be drawn between the challenges that are faced with adapting to a different lifestyle, culture and city. I believe that my first two years at university (and to a certain extent my Gap Year) sufficiently installed these beliefs in such a way that arriving in Granada wasn't a bigger shock to the system that it could have been. Moyes' departure from Sociedad after a year in charge served as a timely reminder that all of us, my classmates and myself, aren't doing too badly! It has also made me embrace the whole Year Abroad experience and the benefits it brings, both linguistically and in a more holistic sense.

Ultimately the biggest lesson we can learn from 'Moysey' is that success in your Year Abroad is down to you, and whether you're willing to be sufficiently honest, self-critical and open-minded to accept that things won't happen for you overnight. With luck, your first two years at University will wake you up to this important fact, as they did me. Be prepared to accept that you're in a minority in terms of the way you view things- often a minority of one, and make the changes necessary in order to improve. If you want to learn more about the Moyes debate as quoted in this blog post, then simply log on to the ITunes store or Sky Sports website and download the latest La Liga Weekly podcast- the first ten to fifteen minutes in particular are well worth a listen. Inevitably the football side takes precedence but as you can hopefully see there are many lessons that we can learn as language students. If nothing else I hope it makes you appreciate the unique nature of living, working and studying in a foreign country- it'll also more than likely make you stop and think to yourself: "I'm doing better than I thought!"


A veces la vida te pone a prueba para ver si eres lo suficientemente fuerte para seguir adelante.
Sometimes, life asks you to prove you're strong enough to keep moving forward.

Chapter Four: Lost In Time

I was struck recently, when I realised I'd been out here for a month. Not only is this already the longest time I've been abroad, but it also feels simultaneously as if I've been out for a lot longer. Working days are surprisingly intense, and there's always plenty of things to sort out between times- namely travel money, food shopping and planning lessons. It's safe to say that come bedtime I'm grateful to have a nice soft pillow on which to fall!

At the same time, I couldn't help but think I could be doing more to immerse myself completely in the culture of Andalusia. And no, I'm not talking about the nightlife! What I've become fascinated by over the past two years at NTU is how Spain became the country it is now. Since arriving here I've been asking myself, what makes each region unique? Why does Andalucía have it's own dialect, architecture and unique gastronomy, for example? And that's to say nothing about some of the most influential figures in the history of Spanish art (Velasquez and Picasso) and literature (Garcia-Lorca) and even world history (Christopher Columbus) who hail from the province.

Federico Garcia Lorca park. One of many reminders of the city's heritage.

With these questions in mind, I decided to flick through the various guidebooks I purchased prior to travelling out, along with tracking down the local library for some extra research. The result? Well, I wouldn't call it a comprehensive guide on the history of Andalucía, but it struck me that it would be beneficial for my budding 'Cultural Competence', and that it would at least be a fun topic to dedicate a blog to. Historical research is another thing to keep me occupied and engaged, after all.

Whilst reading up (and I use that phrase incredibly loosely in this case) it's safe to say I was staggered at some of the influences behind the province's development throughout the course of history. So many cultures influenced early Andalucía: Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths, and of course the Moors, who ruled Al-Andaluz for nearly eight-hundred years. What you'll find in this blog is not a comprehensive history of Andalucía (thank God!) but I hope you enjoy this quick run-down as much as I enjoyed putting it together. Happy reading!

Early Andalucía

According to Andalusian historians, the earliest signs of human settlement in the province can be found in the Cueva de Nerja on the Costa del Sol in the form of cave paintings. These date back as far as the Palaeolithic era, 10,000-2000 BC. Ancients believed the world ended at the 'Pillars of Hercules' in the Strait of Gibraltar. The first to venture beyond this point were the Phoenicians, who in 1100 BC founded the ancient city of Gadir, now known to the world as Cadiz. To this day Cadiz remains the world's oldest city. Malaka (Malaga) and Sexi (Almunecar, also what a name!) followed soon after. The dominant culture of Andalucía has changed hands many times since, with influential historical figures such as Hannibal and Julius Caesar playing key roles. Caesar even fought a decisive battle near Cordoba to become dictator of Rome during the Roman Civil War. Following the fall of the Roman Empire, the Visigoths ruled Southern Spain from Toledo until 711 AD, fighting off the Byzantines along the way.

In 711, the Arab General Tariq Ibn Ziyad crossed the Strait of Gibraltar with an army of 7000 men, landing near today's Tarifa, to settle a dispute among the Visigoths. Over the following three years the Muslim army conquered virtually all of the Iberian peninsula, up to the Asturian mountains, Galicia and the Basque Country.

Al Andaluz: 711-1212

With only the North remaining under Christian control the Moors named their new territories Al-Andaluz, establishing an independent caliphate in 911, of which Cordoba was named the capital. The city became known throughout Europe for its literature, art and science.

The Moors wasted little time making their mark on their new kingdom. They imported new crops, such as rice, and production of unique luxury goods like cotton and silk bought Al-Andaluz a dramatic cultural and economic flowering. Moreover the Moors practiced religious tolerance with the Christians and Jews living amongst them, many of whom voluntarily converted to Islam. The year 785 also saw the beginning of the construction of the famous Mosque of Cordoba. Despite the flourishing of the province, the Moors remained on their guard against Christian forces from the un-occupied regions north of the Asturian  mountains.

The mid-10th Century saw the peak of Moorish culture in Andalucía, and also included victories over the Christians at Toledo and occupation of North Africa, although it was promptly lost again in 979. The Moors also conquered Barcelona (985), Leon (987) and Santiago de Compostela (997). This dominance would not last however, as in the 11th Century the caliphate collapsed into smaller, feuding party states. What followed was a period of disunity and political instability which allowed the Christians an opportunity to regain control of southern Spain. They didn't waste it.

La Reconquista: 1212-1492

The War between the Christians and Muslims began with a decisive Christian victory in the 1212 Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, near Jaen. Shortly after, Cordoba and Sevilla also fell to the Christian advance. Towards the end of the 13th Century only Granada remained under Muslim control. In the retaken territories, throughout the course of this period, Christian monarchs such as Alfonso X and Pedro I instructed mudejar craftsmen to build churches and structures in an attempt to replace the Muslim architecture. Granada had been established as the capital of the Nasrid Emirate, which included Almeria and stretched as far as Gibraltar. This made Granada the richest city in the Iberian peninsula and also its cultural centre. During this time the Muslims left the city one of its most famous landmarks- the Al Hambra palace.

 In 1246 a fragile peace had been agreed, although Christian incursions continued to chip away at the caliphate's dominion. Following the marriage of the Catholic Monarchs, Isabella of Castile and Ferdinand of Aragon and the joining of Spain's two great Christian kingdoms in 1469, open war with Granada was renewed once again, until the Monarchs entered the city on 2 January 1492. Boabdil, the last Moorish ruler, quickly withdrew to Africa, thus ending almost eight hundred years of Islamic culture in Andalucía.

The Golden Age and the Bourbons: 1492-1808

Christopher Columbus was a good friend of Queen Isabella, as even before the occupation of Granada the two had agreed a series of contracts allowing the famous explorer to launch his voyages of discovery from Andalusian ports. In 1492 he set sail from Palos de la Frontera, Cadiz in 1493, in 1498 Sanlucar  de Barrameda and finally Cadiz again in 1502. His discovery of the New World in 1492 also marks the beginning of Spain's colonial empire,  one of history's leading economic and military powers due to vast increases in trade, industry and art- the last of which is associated by many as the keystone of Spain's Golden Age in the 16th Century.  Seville was the greatest profiteer from Columbus' adventures, as this was where all the ships landed first upon their return from Spain's new colonies, laden with goods and gold, highlighting the importance of the Guadalquivir river to Andalucía's economy. In fact, in 1503 Seville was granted a monopoly of all goods and gold from the New World and for a brief period Spain became the leading economic power in Europe.

In 1700 King Charles II died without an heir. In his will he left the crown to the French prince Philip of Anjou. He was subsequently proclaimed by his grandfather Louis XIV, who stated that Spain and France would be united. France was already a feared power throughout Europe and a combined alliance of England, Holland, Prussia and Austria supported the Archduke Charles of Austria on the Spanish throne instead of Philip. Then in 1711 the Holy Roman Emperor Joseph I died, with the Archduke Charles named as his successor. Thus many became worried about the balance of European power, if Charles were to become ruler of both the Holy Roman Empire and Spain. Suddenly Philip became the lesser of two evils. These problems were all resolved however, with the 1713 Peace Treaty of Utrecht, which proclaimed Philip as king on the basis that Spain and France would never be united, weakening the country's military power.

Moreover, due to the treaty Spain lost many overseas colonies, most crucially of all Gibraltar to the British. Ties with France also forced Spain into the Napoleonic wars, resulting in a decisive defeat to the British fleet, lead by Admiral Nelson, at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. Weakened by Spain's conflicts and the loss of her territories, Andalucia became one of the country's poorest regions.

Unrest: From Napoleon to the Civil War: 1808-1939

Following the defeat at Trafalgar, Napoleonic troops marched into Cadiz in 1808, occupying Spain and signalling the start of many years of guerrilla warfare between free-thinking liberals, and conservative supporters of the monarchy. This period saw the founding of the first Spanish constitution in 1812. By 1814, the Spanish monarchy was restored with the ascension of Ferdinand III. However, in 1820 the Liberals instigated an uprising in Cadiz, forcing the king to once again relinquish power to a constitution. As Spain was embroiled in political turmoil, other countries throughout Europe were experiencing the industrial revolution. Thus Andalucia fell further behind, forcing agricultural workers into an even lower economic position and planting ideas of socialism and anarchy in their minds. Landowners eventually became incredibly vocal about their situation during strikes and revolts in the latter half of the 19th century.

The dysfunctional First Republic lasted only a year (1873-1874). Following a military coup in 1910 the monarchy was restored with the crowning of Alfonso XII, who ruled a 'Constitutional Monarchy'- a paradoxical term if ever there was one! The chasm between the ruling Bourgeoisie and working class Proletariat (the aforementioned agricultural workers in this case, due to the lack of industrial revolution) proceeded to sow the seeds of revolution, not only in Andalusia but nationwide. Unlike the rest of Europe, Spain remained so feudal that social protest was rife. As a result, King Alfonso XIII (son of Alfonso XII) authorised General Miguel Primo de Rivera to take power via military coup in an attempt to establish social order. Rivera governed Spain as dictator from 1923-1930.

The 1930's saw the establishment of a Republic, whose government was composed of liberals and moderate socialists and the establishment, once again, of a constitution, following Alfonso XIII's abdication. However, rigid social order meant much anticipated social reforms were slow to arrive. From 1931-1936 social tensions grew between extreme left and right-wing (including the infamous Falangists) movements throughout the nation. 1936 also saw the murder of Federico Garcia-Lorca, one of Granada's favourite sons, at the hands of Falange activists. The outspoken poet and playwright was murdered in his home. His body was never found.

On 18th July 1936 a Moroccan garrison invaded Spain, lead by General Francisco Franco. The plan for a rapid strike to the heart of the young Republic failed however, resulting in three years of conflict between Spaniards loyal to the Republic, and Franco's Right-Wing rebels, a period which is now known more commonly as the Spanish Civil War. Following the rebel's victory in 1939 Spain became the last Nationalist state in Europe.

Aftermath, Present and Future: 1975-Present

Franco would rule as dictator until his death in 1975, during which time many thousands of Republicans were murdered or mysteriously disappeared. To this day, mass graves continue to be unearthed throughout the Spanish countryside and the whereabouts of many people's relatives remain unknown. Following King Juan Carlos' ascension in 1975, Spain's regions clamoured for autonomy from Franco's previously centralised government. Andalusia became autonomous in 1982, after the sevillano Felipe Gonzalez came to power. Furthermore following Spain's re-entry into the European Union in 1986, Andalucia's economy flourished once again. This would only last until 2009, when the country fell into economic depression following the global financial crisis.

Spain's recession continues today, although recent figures from Mariano Rajoy's government hint at the seeds of recovery. Andalucía also faces problems in the form of illegal immigration from Africa, many of whom cross the strait of Gibraltar daily. This, combined with many younger generations of Spaniards leaving their country to seek work elsewhere is altering the country's demographic dramatically, meaning that national retirement age has had to be put back, resulting in elderly Spaniards continuing to work whilst seeing an influx of a new younger generation arriving in Spain seeking a new life, without the necessary tools with which to earn it sustainably or legally.

Conclusion

And....breathe! Thanks for sticking through all the way to the end, throughout the course of this lengthy and at times complex narrative. The history of Spain is an area which has fascinated me since I began my studies at NTU in October 2013. Granted, it's not for everyone, but what better way to immerse yourself in the culture of a foreign country than making the effort to dive right in, and reading up a bit? History is another hobby of mine, and as I have already said, it's vital to use areas of interest to your advantage when it comes to cultural immersion. I'm not pretending that I've become an expert on all things Andalucía over the last fortnight, or that this is all there is to it. Quite the contrary, if I submitted this as a piece of work it would bomb emphatically! But I really hope this has at least piqued some people's curiosity, as those early Spanish Culture lectures at Trent did for me. It seems like so long ago, and going back over some of the details has certainly bought back a few memories and made me reflect more pensively about how far I've come over the last two years, and how much I love what I'm doing now.

The last great reminder of the Muslim Caliphate strikes an imposing silhouette...

Well, that's that. Until next time. I promise to make it a bit briefer...



"To burn with desire and keep quiet about it is the greatest punishment we can bring on ourselves"
Federico Garcia-Lorca, Blood Wedding and Yerma

Cited Works:

• Eyewitness Travel: Seville and Andalucia, Dorling Kindersley LTD, 1996
• Andalucia: The Travel Guide, Marco Polo, 2013

Chapter Three: Dias Granadinos

I've fallen in love.

It sounds crazy, because it's only been two weeks. But with me it never takes very long- I'm extremely naïve in that sense. Already Granada feels like home. There's a comfort in the everyday way of things, now that I've dropped into that much important routine which I wrote about last time. It's something that helps me, and many others I know, to thrive and it's the key to making sense of all the upheaval of the previous fortnight or so. Sheer infatuation, with where I am and what I'm doing.

I use the word upheaval as, for myself and all my fellow ELA's across Spain, Thursday 1st October saw us attend our allocated schools for the first time. For me, this was a very long, and action-packed, day. Starting with an alarm at 6 in the morning, I then had to leave the flat by twenty-past-seven, in order to catch a lift-share to Motril, with a delightful Spanish lady named Esther and her friend Antonio. This is thanks to Bla Bla Car, an extremely convenient tool if you need to commute somewhere further afield. This is due to it being both quicker and cheaper than using a bus, not to mention a much better opportunity to practise my Spanish. It's just an all-round better experience!

 I arrived at my school, Virgen de la Cabeza, shortly before nine O'clock, and was warmly greeted by my mentor teacher and head of the schools bilingual programme, Angela, who wasted no time in introducing me to fellow members of staff. I found this reception completely overwhelming. Every member of staff knew me by name, and would stroll up and introduce themselves as if it was the most natural thing in the world. I've been welcomed in a similar way when I first arrived in Australia over two years ago, but the sheer uplifting feeling of people's generosity never fails to strike a chord with me. And this was all just after nine in the morning!

Mi cole

These prompt starts are actually nothing new for me. I'm a morning person anyway, so I like to seize each day as it is beginning. It's not as if I have the option not to anyway! I'm usually in school at twenty to nine, Monday to Thursday, to meet with fellow members of staff to prepare the days lessons- it's a chance for me to show them the exercises, games or songs that I have planned, and for them to give me feedback. These conversations can be in either English or Spanish, though it's very often the latter, which I infinitely prefer- I'm speaking English most of the time anyway, so any opportunity to practise is to be seized. The staffroom also has the most ingenious coffee machine I've ever had the good fortune to come across, which also helps, especially after the time I'm up on school days!

To build a rapport with students I was encouraged to prepare some PowerPoints describing my hobbies and interests, general life and favourite things, along with some facts about England. This proved to be a great success, and my favourite films, books and sports have made me recognizable (and infamous, in the case of my football team) to pupils around school during the day. As LA's we are all assigned different subjects with which to assist. My allocated classes (Social and Natural Science and Music) really keep me on my toes and coming up with creative ideas for lessons. I've also managed to get used to welcoming cries of "Teacher Ben!" when I enter each classroom- I infinitely prefer that to "Mr Seymour" for various reasons! Lessons begin at 9, finishing at 2 in the afternoon, with a 30 minute break from half-past eleven. It's manic from minute one, but I wouldn't swap it for the world.

In order to get back from Motril, I catch a lift with another Bla Bla Car user. Again, for obvious reasons, this has become a feature of my Year Abroad so far, and I continue to be struck by the generosity and willingness of all the Granadinos I've come across to lend a helping hand. I normally arrive back at home around three. From that point on, the rest of the day is ours to spend as we like: for me this obviously entails going for a run, and on Thursday afternoons you'll find me slogging around the athletics track at Granada's newly refurbished Estadio de la Juventud- an average temperature of 26 degrees makes it so much easier to get the winter miles in, not to mention an opportunity to keep the running vest-tan on point! My fellow LA's and I will also frequently arrange to meet for dinner, tapas, drinks or a combination of all three. These gatherings are a great chance to trade a few laughs and swap some war stories from the days classes- the highlights (so far) being some of us having to explain the finer points of the male and female anatomy (yes, all of it), horse riding, mountain biking and being stiff-limbed from two hours of singing 'Heads, Shoulders, Knees and Toes.' After that I fall into bed, exhausted, to do it all again the next day. I'll say this: Auxiliares certainly earn their keep.

Hitting the track for the first time, finally!

The routine I keep is trying, but highly gratifying in equal measure. It's very strange when I think back to where I was this time last year. That's the biggest reason I need this experience. It's a chance to continue to grow, to leave behind old, unhealthy obsessions, things I was hung up about for so long, and get to know a new area, explore greater horizons and to meet new people. I personally feel things went a bit stale in Nottingham last year, and that I needed a new stimulus- something to really push me to change my attitude. I'm not there yet, but that old adage of 'one step at a time' continues to ring true. I currently don't have any time to stop and think about things, and that's just how I like it. More of the same please! Except human biology...


'Por volar mientras todos caminan.' Fly, whilst all the others walk.

Chapter Two: Up and Running

Greetings from Granada, beloved readers!

I've now been out here for five days, and the enormity of what myself and my fellow Erasmus students are undertaking is just starting to dawn on me. I've written previously about the importance of pushing yourself outside of your comfort zone if you want to grow, and I can definitely say that's the case here.

The previous week has been intense. I moved into my new flat on the anniversary of the first episode of Friends (22 September, in case you were wondering), so I'm hoping that's some kind of good omen! After only five days Granada is beginning to feel more and more like home, and already myself and my fellow LA's feel like we understand what the city has to offer on all fronts, whether that's linguistic, social, cultural, or whatever you can think of really! The process of getting your feet under the table can be tricky, but its something to be endured, as once you're on the other side and into your routine everything will fly past. You'll be looking back on the most incredible year in no time at all.

Not a bad place to run.

That being said, the opening few weeks are still bound to be stressful for everybody, and Spanish bureaucracy has done its best to throw us all a huge curveball- namely the infamous NIE appointment and seeming reluctance of any Spanish bank to accept a travelling English student's request to open an account so far. If it's any consolation, everybody will be in the same boat. This is where perseverance, adaptability and confidence will be so important: all three of which are skills I've marked to improve this year. So you could say that this is simply another objective to be ticked off the list- things like this, although part of a country's legal system, can be treated as a means to a more personal end, namely improving your ability to deal with a challenging, unfamiliar situation in a foreign country, on your own. And when you've done it? Massive kudos to you!

Though initially discouraged I have still managed to accomplish plenty this week: I've been fortunate to have moved in with two delightful Spanish students (both Ana, conveniently), and already I feel my linguistic skills improving. My fellow members of Team Granada are fantastic people all, despite my success in getting us all lost during our initial meet-ups- including in El Corte Ingles. And the city itself is as you'd expect- overflowing with rich cultural heritage, full of lively and generous people, great food and drink, (very important!) and the most incredible city centre you are ever likely to see: consisting of, among other things, the Federico Garcia Lorca park, the Rio Genil and the Plaza de la Trinidad near the city's amazing Cathedral. I could go on forever.

Despite all this, of course there will be certain aspects of home that everyone misses, especially in the opening few weeks: namely the comfort of a regular routine, people you know and activities and other quirky things you enjoy. For me, the first one of these moments came this morning when, upon glancing at the time, I realized that I would normally be down at my local Parkrun. But everyone knows how to get around this: use whatever you can to your advantage- for example, running around, through and across the city this week with the aid of the ever-reliable google maps (don't listen to what my fellow LA's out here say!) has done wonders for my infamously unreliable sense of geography. Of course, surrounding yourself with positive people who share your outlook and experience also helps to no end. But some things simply cannot be replaced, however hard you try: which is why I'm overjoyed that I've been able to track down my favourite muesli from home- Hipercor, you are wonderful, please keep stocking it! My mornings would not be the same otherwise!

I'm also incredibly relieved to have had some time out here without having to work. It sounds obvious but it's so important to make sure you're fully settled before beginning a job which requires meticulous planning and no little patience and flexibility. Moreover, you don't want to arrive at school for your first day at school completely unprepared and worried sick over the fact that you haven't had time to book your NIE appointment, or at the other end of the spectrum, uncertain about your flatmates or city, having had no time to settle in and prepare. It's imperative that you give yourself the best possible platform to both do what you're here for, whether that be studying or work, but also to make the entire experience worthwhile and memorable for you: it will require some effort, conviction and adaptability (that word again) but at the end of the day you will be setting yourself up for the best year of your university career.

However, I do understand why many of us are getting cold feet from waiting to get started: it's so important to have a routine that allows you to make time for both your job and the things you enjoy. I still have plenty of things to do: namely revolving around visiting my school before starting work on Thursday, finally resolving the NIE issue and opening a bank account, and sorting gym membership, to say nothing of social events and meeting friends. Once this is all ticked off, I'll finally feel like a fully-fledged Granadino, and it will be a great relief! Moreover, once you know what you're doing, where and when, you'll be able to throw yourself into your placement of choice without any needless worries or distractions- after all, familiarity breeds content.

It has been a long, but very worthwhile week. I still think back to the times when, upon leaving Menorca at the end of each summer, I'd wonder what it would be like to spend a whole year in Spain. Now that dream is a reality, and it will be a long time before the novelty wears of- in fact I'm not sure it will! This would have been the perfect week, but for the utter capitulation of a certain Catalan football team away at Celta Vigo on Wednesday night, but life, and more importantly, the Year Abroad, continues at a frenetic pace for your favourite blogger. Let's see what Thursday and onwards holds. Until then, if anyone needs me, you'll likely find me nursing an Americano in one of the Gran Via's fantastic espresso bars. Hasta pronto!


No matter what kind of wisdom dictates to you the option you should pick, no one will be able to tell you if it's right or wrong until you arrive at some sort of outcome by making a choice. We can only believe that we won't regret the choices we make.

Chapter One: Buckets and Lists

It's been a hectic couple of weeks since my last post. A potent mix of days (and nights) out with my brother and sister, racing and seeing friends for possibly the last time before heading off, to say nothing of contacting flatmates (iPhone predictive text is a real pain when trying to text in Spanish) via WhatsApp and poring over maps of Granada to pinpoint my exact location in the city centre has certainly kept me busy.

As I fly out in 8 days time, opportunities to sit, reflect and set targets for the coming year (and to write this second post) have been few and far between. That said, saying what I've got to get excited about this year won't take much! So without further ado, read on for a list of what I'm hoping to get out of this year- that may or may not have much to do with Spain!

1. Big City Life

When I first heard I'd be stationed in Motril, a small, resort-like town on the southern coast, I'd describe my reaction as mixed. I was 45 minutes away from Granada city centre by bus in what is described as a family-oriented, non-student village, whilst every other language assistant was based in the city centre. So in the knowledge that my commute would be sizeable but with the added social payoff, I decided to look for accommodation in Granada, close to the bus station on the Calle Minerva. I'd recommend any student do the same, unless it's clearly impractical- Language Assistants work only 12 hours a week spread over three days, so you'll have plenty of spare time in which to get out there and polish up your linguistic skills, along with having time to pursue your own interests and friendships. Yes, it means compromising at times- in my case a 50 minute commute- but it's certainly worth being flexible! And I've said nothing so far about what there is to see and do in Granada- like the Alhambra, Sierra Nevada and El Albayzin, not forgetting the highly recommended Erasmus nights!

2. La Liga Loca...

Spanish football is simply the best. It's beautiful, bonkers and Barҫa play it (top already, get in!!!)! But learning that Granada CF also play in Spain's La Primera caused great excitement, and no little intrigue. The club are owned by the Pozzo family, who also run Italy's Udinese and Watford, the English Premier League's new boys. Interestingly, and inevitably I suppose, there are some shady rumours that all three Pozzo clubs rotate players amongst themselves through tactical use of the loan system- not illegal, but not clearly not ethical sporting behaviour! El Grana narrowly avoided dropping to the Segunda Division last year, finishing 17th- one place above the relegation zone. Dream matches would be any of the following: the Andalusian derbies against Sevilla (January 3rd, 2016) and Malaga (10th April, 2016), welcoming Real Madrid to town (7th February- late birthday present?) or a potential title-decider against Barcelona on the final day of the season- 15th May 2016. Save that date folks!

3. The Need for Speed

Cue eye-rolling and groans all round, but here I go: the running scene in Spain is nothing short of spectacular. It's no wonder the sport is growing in popularity in a country rich with fabulous places to train: from parks filled with all kinds of local botany and scenic off-road trails, to quiet neighbourhoods and beaches, there are endless places, and therefore no excuses! Joining a running group would bring all of the usual benefits -motivation, training sessions, friends- along with ample Spanish-speaking practice: another advantage of an open mind is seeing opportunity all around! This summer I've chipped away at my 5K personal best, getting it down to 18:29 without access to a running track. So imagine my euphoria upon discovering not one, not two, but THREE of these within easy reach: two in Granada city centre, the other in Motril. This means that thankfully, despite my aforementioned travel requirements, I'll be able to fit training around teaching and social commitments- it's all about balance after all! It's also, shamelessly, a chance to top up the tan- as one of my former club-mates said: 'All that warm weather training and you'll come back like Mo Farah!' I'll also hopefully be a bit more fluent linguistically- what's the Spanish for 'lactate threshold'?!

4. A Familiar Feeling

Nearly three years ago, I was fortunate enough to travel to Australia for what I can only describe as a life-changing three months. I say that because of what it did and continues to do for me, namely shaping my independence and installing a strong work-ethic. You could say the typical Aussie spirit rubbed off on me a little: they don't accept being messed about- if you're there then you have a job to do, always to the maximum of your ability. It's not difficult to see how this has helped me during the first half of my university career. However, the best thing about the experience for me was the feeling of working in a familiar environment (in this case a school) but in a different role. It reshapes your outlook and gives you a new perspective- I could certainly see a lot of my old self in the boys staying in my allocated boarding house. Going back to school for the third time in my life, this time as a member of the teaching staff, is yet another chapter to be excited about.

The bond that one builds as a member of staff, particularly one to whom pupils can feel free to build a relationship (be that gap student or language assistant) is extremely gratifying, and I'll never get tired of that feeling. At the risk of sounding extremely big-headed, knowing that people look up to you and see you as a role model is, in my opinion, the greatest compliment that can be given to anyone. It's what I continually strive for and I'd advise all of my fellow Language Assistants this year to set their sights in a similar way. If I can do that then I'll have no choice but to call the coming year a resounding success. Until next time, ¡hasta luego!



'Be brave. Take risks. Nothing can substitute experience.' Paulo Coelho