Chapter Twelve: 'Granada es chula'

Less than two months remain, and I'm still not sure how to refer to my city of residence for this year. It doesn't feel big enough to be called a major city, yet to refer to it as a forgotten jewel seems to be paying it lip service. It's certainly very different to any other Spanish city I've ever been to.

Granada has a lot to offer. Funnily enough, it's strikingly similar to Nottingham, as there are reminders of the city's heritage scattered all over the place. It's also a very popular student destination- with good reason, as I'm sure you've heard that when you order a drink at a bar you get a free tapa, making the experience of dining out cheap, social and fun. Because of this you get people from many different nationalities here, meaning it's easy to make friends from all over the world- we're all in this together.

As far as student attractions go, Granada is all set. However, what if one were to spend a week here, seeing other things the city has to offer? Well, you absolutely would not run out of things to do, which is what this latest blog will talk about. A mix of breath-taking landmarks, friendly cafeterias and historic restaurants, (yes, historic) combined with some striking architecture make this one of the great 'undiscovered jewels' (still doesn't feel right) that Spain could possibly offer any budding tourist willing to give it a try. These are just some of the places that you simply must experience.

1. El Mirador De San Nicolas

Of course, mostly everyone knows about this place, but I need to say this: it is utterly mind-blowing. The Mirador is essentially a lookout which offers the best views of the city, Alhambra and Sierra Nevada. I went up during the early evening, and I'd absolutely recommend experiencing it during the twilight hours. Looking out over the city as dusk gathers is nothing short of magical, and I'm certainly going to make the time to do it again before I leave. There isn't much else to say, other than it's a must for anyone who finds themselves visiting Granada. Finally, make sure to drop in at the Balcon De San Nicolas restaurant and bar before you head back down into town. Sitting opposite the majestically lit Alhambra as a backdrop is a dining experience you will not forget in a hurry.

'I can see my house from here..'

2. The Alhambra

Yes, another obvious pick but it wouldn't be Granada without mentioning the Alhambra . Having previously read, watched and written at length about the city's most famous landmark before I even set foot here, I can safely say that it deserves its renown. Everything there is perfectly preserved, giving the impression that this last great bastion of the Muslim Caliphate has been completely frozen in time.  The gardens are stunning, and the towers and walls offer equally spectacular views of the city as the previous entry on this list.

Meaning 'The Red Fortress' in reference to how it appears to glow in the evening sun, the palace was built in the 14th Century as a visual symbol of the rule of Granada by the Muslim Nasrid Emirate, and is considered by both contemporary and modern architects the world over as the greatest example of Moorish-Arab architecture in Europe. It's highly likely that you will have watched a documentary on Spain which would have featured this place at some point, however it is absolutely worth a visit.

As far as visits go, the popularity of the palace among tourists has increased exponentially in recent years, making actually getting your hands on tickets a little more complicated. I'd advise buying tickets two months in advance. Really. This is because my trusty guide-book tells me that roughly 6,000 tickets are put on sale per day, of which only a small number can be purchased over counter, for only 14 euros a go. This naturally forces your hand, and it's worth being an early bird as these are snapped up quickly. But it's worth the effort- take my word for it.

3. La Taberna Salinas

I love this tapas bar. Some of the best dinners out I've had this year have all been here, in this little place just off the Calle Gran Via and with good reason: the atmosphere is friendly, the food is affordable and delicious, and service is excellent. It's popular, but that doesn't make the experience any less pleasant- in fact, it generates an atmosphere of comfortable companionship, rather than making the whole place feel cluttered. It's also my usual haunt to watch Barca games, and I'm yet to have anything other than a great time here. Well, discounting last week's Classico from that, but it remains the exception rather than the rule. Even then, it had nothing to do with the setting! I highly recommend the Paella, naturally. Make sure to wash it down with a good pint of Alhambra, the local lager too. Brilliantly refreshing.

4. La Capilla Real

Yet another unmissable landmark for a student of History, the tomb of Los Reyes Catolicos (the Catholic Monarchs) King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabella I of Castilla is an essential visit for anyone interested in diving into the country's past. Personally, I am yet to fully immerse myself in this particular area for any extended period of time other than my first year at university, but reading recreationally about the Reconquista (the setting of this October's much anticipated Assassin's Creed film starring Michael Fassbender) was a tantalising glimpse into the often blood-soaked history of Spain, and my visit here only served to further wet my increasing appetite to find out more about this fascinating period that changed both the country's religious landscape and the course of it's own history.

Sometimes the distant past becomes infinitely more tangible.

The Reconquista (literally 'Reconquest') of Spain by the Catholic Monarchs was definitively ended when Isabella and Ferdinand's army marched into Granada in January 1492, ending the Muslim Emirate of Granada and driving out the last of Spain's former Muslim rulers. This day in history is still celebrated in the city today, although many are quick to condemn this particular festival for obvious reasons. Regardless of any controversy over how their lives are commemorated, I would strongly advise anyone to make a trip to where the remains of Ferdinand and Isabella, together with those of their oldest grandson Miguel de Paz, and their daughter Queen Juana I and her husband Felipe, currently rest. The Capilla's museum can be found in the refectory and houses many of the monarch's personal items, such as Ferdinand's sword, sceptre and crown, along with Isabella's reliquary and prayer books, and some of her collection of paintings.

5. El Estadio De La Juventud

Something for more athletically-inclined readers. Recently renovated and officially reopened last summer, this sports centre, located on the appropriately named Calle Jesse Owens has almost everything you'd want. A six-lane athletics track surrounds a full size, all-weather football and rugby pitch, with Padel courts also located outside. The interior houses indoor cycling and Pilates studios, along with table tennis and free weights rooms. If you're not a member, you can get daily entry and use of all facilities for five euros. It's ok for a couple of uses, but if you're here for the long term then it's worth getting a year's membership for only 20 euros. It's a brilliantly affordable price, and means that people of all ages and abilities can easily have access to great facilities to get fitter and improve their health. Fitness classes and personal training are also offered at reasonable prices.

Where sweat is shed and champions are made.

You'll normally find me down here three times a week. On Monday and Friday I'll be pumping iron in the weights room, with a track session on Thursday afternoons traditionally kicking off my weekend. There's nothing like some tough 800 metre reps to bust the stress that comes with teaching! This has been the first time that I've ever had consistently easy access to quality facilities, and it's brilliant being able to use the track and gym alongside semi-professional athletes, a point further demonstrated by the Granada CF Ladies' team who use the Juventud as their home ground. For my running friends, the track is open 9am to 5pm and 8pm to 10pm, Monday to Friday.

6. Restaurante Chikito

Yes, it's a restaurant but it's about as far-removed from the popular Mexican chain as you're likely to get. This charming little place located in the Plaza del Campillo started out as a café, and over the years has gone on to become one of the cities most popular restaurants, not just for the quality of it's typically Andalusian cuisine, but also for the history behind it. It was here that Federico Garcia Lorca, the renowned and beloved poet and one of Granada's most fondly remembered historical figures, would come and sit in the corner of the former Alameda artist's café, and spend hours at a time talking with friends and associates. Garcia Lorca was such a prominent figure in the history of Spain before his death at the hands of Falangist rebels in the build-up to the Spanish Civil War that he even has a sculpture in the dining room, at the very table at which he used to sit. Yet another romantic reminder of the city's past- and also the lessons that must be learned from it.

Federico Garcia Lorca retains an iconic presence.

Regarding the food itself, lovers of Portuguese and Andalusian dishes will leave infinitely satisfied. Naturally most dishes are fish based (no problem here!) but there's plenty on offer: such as tortilla, caldaretta (essentially cold meat stew with potatoes, also very delicious) and gazpacho (cold soup, available only in summer, yet again highly recommended). The café/bar has also been kept, so it's a great place to meet friends for a casual drink or two. Outdoor seating is available on warm days, which makes for a great experience looking out on the Plaza.

7. Catedral Santa Maria de la Encarnacion

Last, but by no means least. You may read this and think it looks just like any other cathedral in the world. I'm here to tell you that's right. It's just as regal, imposing, stunning and menacing all at once as any other temple of worship in the world. It's not as radiant as that of Barcelona, nor as big as Sevilla's. Yet it is almost certainly the most important of Andalucia's four major cathedrals for it's religious and historic significance.

Throughout the course of the Reconquista monarchs such as Alfonso X and Pedro I instructed craftsmen to erect Catholic monuments in retaken territories in an attempt to impose Catholicism upon the inhabitants. With Granada being the capital of the Nasrid Emirate, the significance of the city's Catholic cathedral is symbolic of Ferdinand and Isabella's final victory. This is further demonstrated by the fact that Granada's was the only cathedral in Spain that was commissioned after the re-occupation of the city in 1492. Work officially began on the cathedral in 1523, and continued throughout the Renaissance period. By the entrance are wooden statues of Ferdinand and Isabella, carved in 1677 by sculptor Pedro de Mena. When you consider all that it stands for, even the word symbolic fails to do it justice.

The Catedral de la Encarnacion rises above the houses in the city centre.

I'm continually surprised by what I learn about Granada's heritage and cultural significance. For a city that is oft forgotten by the thousands of foreigners who journey to Spain each year, it certainly has something for everyone to enjoy and be enthralled by in equal measure. Listed above are the seven places in the city that have left the biggest impression on me so far this year, for differing reasons- whether that be the opportunity to look into an area of history that continues to fascinate and excite me, a chance to have fun with friends and visiting family members or boosting my recreational athletic pursuits.

Sure, if you were to ask people about the 'A-List' Spanish cities that they wish to visit, you'll hear the usual answers of Barcelona, Madrid, Valencia and Sevilla, and that's fine- these are wonderful, unique and stunning cities to explore. However I'd urge anyone and everyone to give Granada a try, if you're ever looking to sample somewhere with a difference. You will not be disappointed.

'So come and see. The city is a lady, a mountain of a woman. A river shimmeringly encircles her body like a waist belt; flowerlike, jewels glisten at her throat.'
Poet Ibn Zmarak on discovering Granada (14th Century)

Chapter Eleven: Lessons Being Learned, Part II

Back in late October, I dedicated a blog post to the experience of a certain David Moyes as manager of San Sebastian's Real Sociedad CF, and the lessons that we, as ERASMUS students living and working abroad, could take from this particular episode. I extensively quoted Guillem Balague, Sky's Spanish football expert, who was critical of Moyes' failure to fully adapt to the unique culture of the city, and also that he didn't help himself by failing to learn the language sufficiently. In the same piece, Balague also commended another Brit working in La Liga- Philip Neville at Valencia- for stepping out of his comfort zone and being willing to learn. Despite some linguistic teething-problems, -he meant to say he was 'running on the beach', google the rest- Neville had impressed throughout the August 2015 pre-season as Valencia's assistant coach.

By the time December rolled around, Los Che were in crisis. Valencia's brilliantly named head coach Nuno Espirito Santo had been sacked, with the team in serious danger of missing out on the lucrative riches of the Champions League. Valencia supporters could be forgiven for thinking it couldn't get any worse. Little did they know...

Upon leaving the gym one Wednesday afternoon, I checked my phone only to nearly drop it in shock- the headline read 'Gary Neville leaves punditry role at Sky Sports to become Valencia head coach alongside younger brother Phil.' I had to read it multiple times for it to sink in. Gary Neville? Managing his first club? In Spain? AT VALENCIA? Needless to say, the reaction among the Spanish press was almost as universally negative as the recent reviews for Batman V Superman: Dawn of Justice.  'A huge gamble', screamed  Marca, a far cry from Super Deporte's 'Neville, yes we can' (written like that). One paper even referred to the new gaffer as Scottish.

Supporters were incredulous. How, they said, could a famous ex-player with no top level coaching experience, who worked as a TV analyst and who doesn't speak the language walk into the fourth biggest club in Spain as if it were the easiest thing in the world? Moreover, Neville didn't make a great start when he said 'I'm here to learn and make the best I can of this experience.' Sounds fine, but when put through the mouth of an interpreter, Valencia's notoriously fickle fans believed that their new gaffer saw their club as simply a stepping stone to greater things. Needless to say, they were less than impressed- was he just coming in to test the water? Had he just got the job for being chummy with the owner, Peter Lim? (The answer to that second question being emphatically yes, by the way.)

After three months it's all over, following a terrible run of just three wins from his 16 league matches in charge. Neville's relationship with the fans had deteriorated dramatically, something not helped by his struggling to get to grips with the language, (outside of him being heard screaming 'pasa la puta pelota' at his players) and an almost scatter-gun policy of team selection. He admittedly wasn't helped by poor performances from key players at key moments (I'm looking at you, Alvaro Negredo) and a 7-0 thrashing at the Camp Nou at the hands of my beloved team, but three wins in three months is not good enough for a club the size of Valencia. When he took over, Los Che were 5 points off the coveted fourth Champions League spot. He has left with them 20 points adrift. In the cold light of day, it's easy to see how this experiment failed.

As the Telegraph's Sam Wallace puts it: 'It's been a good experience for him, but not necessarily for the Valencia fans. For all the bravery he's shown in taking on a club of that size, if we were to reverse the situation, with a rookie Spanish manager coming over to England, who didn't speak English and was effectively parachuted in ahead of other English managers, then Gary Neville would probably be one of the first in line to say "What's going on?" He didn't give himself enough of a chance to succeed. Sometimes you need to do more than just back yourself. There's being brave, and then there's overstretching yourself.'

Me when I set my students homework...

However, Henry Winter of The Times commends Neville on his approach: 'Anyone who has met Gary Neville will know that this is a tough character. He will bounce back. He'll use this experience in the right way, however painful it has been, and I wish this current generation of young English coaches would go out, gamble and take these chances. At least he took a risk in a professional capacity. It hasn't worked out but he will use the experience. We should celebrate that rather than dancing on his managerial grave. Had he not taken the job, he said he would never have been able to look his colleagues in the eye again.'

The words of the both of them serve to teach me a lesson, and also to remind me why I'm here. Firstly, had I not decided to take the plunge and head off to Granada, then I feel my credibility as a motivated and driven Modern Languages student would have been irreparably damaged. I feel that I wouldn't have been able to look my tutors in the eye throughout my final year, and this was a huge factor in pushing me towards Spain. It was absolutely crucial, in hindsight, that I was prepared to take the risk and learn what I can from the experience, when it came to linguistic practice, cultural competence and my own understanding of what I was capable of achieving.

Also, much like Neville, I realised that the opportunity to gain work experience in a foreign country was truly unmissable, and it's given me plenty of food for thought. What I'm trying to say is that when we look closer at the reasons why Neville took the job at Valencia, there are myriad parallels that we, as language students, can draw that will help us to better articulate why we are here, doing what we're doing. At the outset I was scared, I'll admit. But now, with only two months remaining of this adventure, I for once feel prepared. Hopefully I won't jynx anything but I finally feel as if my Spanish has come on in leaps and bounds, although in true granadino style, I've stopped saying the letter 's'. I've also drafted something that looks vaguely like a dissertation title over the easter break, beginning to look ahead to returning at the end of September.

'How many was it, Gary?'

Ultimately, when I consider all of the above, it becomes clear that this whole experience is a win-win situation. Thinking back to Christmas 2014, when I was agonising over the decision of whether to take on the challenge or not, it feels like a lifetime ago. Choosing the more difficult option has undoubtedly changed me for the better. The big take-away is this: always be prepared to push yourself, in whatever walk of life that may be. It will not always be easy, but if it were easy then it wouldn't be worth doing. It wouldn't challenge you, or make you an even better version of yourself than you already are.

I believe that things aren't always as black and white as they appear. It's very easy these days to dub oneself a success or failure depending on past experience, and I believe the fear of 'failure' is what holds us all back sometimes. It's not the end of the world to admit you've made a mistake. I'm a firm believer in second chances in all walks of life, be that with work, academia, friends, relationships, you name it. There will always be another chance to try again, to make amends. You just need to be prepared to go away, learn where and how you went wrong and then be patient when you return. It may come tomorrow, next week or a year from now. But when that next opportunity comes around we have to be brave, take a chance and grab it while we can.

So if in doubt, challenge yourself. If you don't buy a ticket, you'll never win the lottery.


'You see teams go to the Camp Nou and get beat 5, 6, 7-0. Barcelona are a good side, well, a great side. But if I were ever involved with a team that got beat 7-0  there I wouldn't be able to look my family in the eye anymore.' Gary Neville, 15th April 2014 on Sky Sports

'We can only say sorry to the supporters and the many people who work every day for this club.'
Gary Neville, 4th February 2016, after experiencing the aforementioned result.

*The quotes in this blog are taken from BBC Radio 5 Live's Football Daily podcast, from the 31st March 2016. Well worth a listen for any fellow followers of The Beautiful Game out there.